In the first part , I introduced the process from the design drawing to the assembly of each part.
When you come this far, you can finally see the finished model. However, the shoemaking process still continues...! Let's take a look at the continuation "bottom attachment" process.
At this point, the upper and the sole finally come together. Fix the insole to the wooden pattern, and cover the wooden pattern with the upper made in step 4.
When molding the toe with a machine, we use a machine called "Tora Star".
The sole craftsman uses a pliers-like tool called a “crocodile” to pull the upper along the wooden pattern, and then nail the insole to fix it in place.
This process is called "fishing", and while it is an important process that affects the beauty of the shoes, it also requires a lot of strength. The "hole" in the heel that I introduced at the beginning is the mark where the nail was hammered to fix the upper to the wooden pattern.
A craftsman who showed me "thumbs are amazing!" Evidence of a veteran who has been in charge of this process for many years, stretching and pressing the leather with all his might. This is exactly what a craftsman does!
After the fishing is finished, scrape off the excess leather with a grinder and glue the outsole. Each craftsman takes responsibility for everything from fishing to bottoming.
Once the outsole is attached, let it rest for 1-2 days to allow it to adapt to the wooden pattern. The goal is finally in sight...! ?
For shoes with high heels, after removing the wooden pattern, the heel is fixed by hammering nails with a “heel hammer”. Put the adhesive between the insole and the heel with a special machine ......
Fix it at once with a heel hammer.
The shoes are finally finished! Remove dirt and debris, smooth out wrinkles with a hot air blower or trowel, attach an insole, and put it in a box. Put insoles, glue decorative parts,
Since leather is a natural material, the surface condition is different one by one. If there are wrinkles, put it on a hot air blower to stretch it out.
Then, each pair is carefully packed in a box.
When the boxing is finished, it's done... I thought, but the figure of the craftsman who opened it again.
Once the product is boxed, it is opened and inspected manually before it is shipped. I check each pair by palpation to see if there are any nails sticking out or if they are dirty.
After the manual inspection is completed, we use an X-ray machine to make a final check for foreign substances, forgotten nails, and typos. Shoe x-ray, very sexy.
It is rare for a factory to introduce an X-ray machine, and it seems that they often send it to a specialized company. If we can complete everything up to the X-ray inspection in-house, we can shorten the time until delivery, and when a defect is found in a product, we can quickly share information within the company and discuss countermeasures, which will lead to better results. Mr. Minami, the president of the company, says that the awareness of workers has changed, and the quality of products has improved.
Knowing that so many people are involved in assembling so many parts and materials and carefully assembling them one by one, the way I look at the shoes I usually wear has changed a little. Is it coming...?
This is the part used for 17AW COLLECTION LINDA [SILVER] . Over 20 on just one leg.
Unfortunately, in the last five to ten years, the Japanese shoe industry has seen the disappearance of so-called major shoe wholesalers and manufacturers one after another. As the average age of craftsmen is 70 to 80 years old, and while we would like veteran workers to continue working as long as the quality does not decline, we are looking to the future and actively hiring younger generations. Apollo says he is.
Young craftsmen ask veteran craftsmen questions from time to time, work with their hands, and acquire skills. I think it takes about a year.
Every season, designers from all over the world come to us with questions such as, "I want to make something new!" It seems that the comment "I have something to do" is often asked. This is the moment when the knowledge unique to a veteran craftsman who has seen repeated fashion trends is put to use.
It seems that there will be many changes as the techniques are passed on from the veteran to the younger generation. The success of young craftsmen is reassuring for the brand side, and I look forward to the future more and more.
When it comes to luxury women's shoes, many people think of Italian-made shoes. Under such circumstances, what is the meaning of making shoes in Tokyo?
“There is meaning in doing things in Tokyo, the center of fashion in Japan. It's really perverted to want to do this (laughs)," said President Minami (left) with a pleasant smile.
Sellenatela has been making shoes in Tokyo for 10 years. I believe that the meaning of continuing to make shoes in Tokyo is to express the unique sensibility of Japanese people through shoes, rather than just imitating foreign brands.
Anyway, those who love shoes are the ones who support Sellenatela's craftsmanship.
The Japanese shoe industry is based on the division of labor, in which people need to communicate with each other, rather than a manufacturing site with an assembly line. I hope that the temperature will be conveyed to everyone who holds it in their hands. And I hope that encountering the brand Sellenatela will give you an opportunity to take care of things and to look a little more at the background of how things are made.
This time, we introduced the people involved in the manufacturing process and manufacturing. From the next time onwards, it will be a story about a "heel shop" that deals only with heels and a "leather shop" that deals with leather used for uppers. looking forward to.
Interview cooperation: Apollo Co., Ltd.